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The Mediterranean-themed evening could not have been hosted in a more fitting venue than the stunning Italian Villa, which of course overlooks the Italian garden – one of five themed ornamental gardens Compton Acres is famed for.
Welcome drinks (limoncello spritz) and introductions complete, we took our seats at the beautifully-laid tables and Hannah Bentham, the Venue Manager explained the new concept.
“‘Otto’ meaning ‘eight’ in Italian, we named this new concept after the eight courses that have been created to showcase the incredible skill of the kitchen team at the villa beyond their usual wedding food. Wonderful though that is, they can do so much more, and we wanted to give people a chance to experience their talent.”
Each course was painstakingly planned and produced, tasting exquisite and looking like something you might find in the Tate. And each course was expertly paired with the right wine, with sommelier Charlie Bullen giving a passionate explanation of each one, from the climate and soil in the location it was produced and the different grapes and production methods. Did you know that your dessert wine must always be slightly sweeter than your dessert? And that in order for a Barolo to be named as such it must have been aged in an oak or chestnut barrel for at least 38 months?
We started with a beautiful soft Italian burrata and tomato consommé with basil, paired with Vermentino Sopraso, Pala from Italy and ended with a dark chocolate miso caramel mousse with blood orange and a delicious Ferreira 10 year-old tawny port from Portugal. The six courses in between involved the likes of cured venison with handmade rye bread and a divine black garlic butter (who knew butter could be black? And taste that good!); hand-dived scallops with apple granita and wasabi emulsion (so refreshing); 12-hour slow braised oxtail ravioli with wild mushrooms and black truffle; and wild caught stone bass, octopus carpaccio, poached langoustine and sea herbs paired with a delightful Mahi Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.
Everything from the homemade seeded crackers served with a trio of south coast cheeses and saffron-poached pear to the bronze fennel accompanying the Limoncello mini meringue almond tart tasted fabulous.
While I love food and really love wine, I cannot claim to be the next Grace Dent. Happily, I was seated next to a man called Kevin, who was as knowledgeable about food and wine as he was funny and charming. Luckily, he knew what makes a good consommé and which local farm the venison was likely to have been sourced from. Yes, I could eat the pretty apple blossom and no I shouldn’t ask for another glass of the Riesling. He and his husband both work as occasional butlers for the Royal household so I knew I was in safe hands. They understood which fork to use and judged whether the china and crystal were up to scratch. They were.
Try as I might, I have no criticisms - I like my reviews to be balanced. The best I can do is lower the lighting slightly. Kevin suggested that perhaps linen on the tables would have been better, but I liked the rustic wooden tables, they brought an Italian vibe to what was, after all, an Italian villa. He questioned some of the wine pairings but was genuinely impressed by the food.
Entertainment was provided at intervals throughout; enthusiastic head chef Tom Hayes gave a live demonstration of how to prepare the scallop course and chocolatier Christian Orner taught us how to produce the perfect mousse.
As always, at any event, it’s the people that make or break it and Kaye and Bernard Merna who have owned Compton Acres since 2003 are clearly much-loved and respected by the staff, who ensured that they were happy at regular intervals. Their company and that of the other guests on our table, combined with the consummate professionalism of every member of staff from Hannah, Tom, Christian and Charlie to the bar, kitchen and waiting staff, made the evening the huge success it was.
If you’re looking for a special night out, don’t hesitate to book for the next Club Otto event, I certainly will be.
To find out more go to www.thevillacomptonacres.com
Emily McGregor, Local News and Lifestyle Reporter
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