REVIEW: The return of cool Britannia

Being an Ashley Cross local, I was most excited to be invited to The Britannia’s soft launch on Friday night, ahead of the pub’s official opening today (17th).

Formerly Maison Sax, the pub has now reverted to its original name - The Britannia – and hopes to once again become a traditional dog-friendly pub, known and loved in Poole. The White Brasserie Company has taken over, creating 55 jobs in the area and bringing its unique style to the venue - already evident at The Oaks in Highcliffe.

Our group of four was greeted personally by Omid Salehi, the General Manager, and invited to head straight to the well-stocked bar so that the staff could practice using the new and impressive tab system. With a huge range of ales, lagers and ciders on tap, including Doom Bar, Prahva and Cornish Orchard, and a fabulous wine list, we didn’t need much persuasion.

After a quick catch-up in the chilled-out bar area, Omid led us to our table, explaining that they could handle 150 covers in the restaurant and a whopping 100 more in the spacious terrace and garden, complete with beautiful outdoor fireplace and winter-proof, heated cabanas.

Inge Watrobski, Head of Design for the company, had promised that, “the interiors will be warm and inviting with British made wool tartans, bespoke deep-buttoned vintage leather banquettes, fabulous wallpapers and our favourite quirky touches.”

And I’m pleased to report that this was entirely true. Relaxed and welcoming with clever use of lighting and background music at just the right level. We particularly loved the lamps that were dotted about and the fact that the banquettes, comfy as they were, were accessorised with pretty cushions.

With Raymond Blanc - Michelin star chef - as one of the directors, we had high hopes for the food, described as ‘traditional pub classics with a French influence’.

Having been ditched by our teenagers, we had invited friends to join us and, between us took on Cheese Soufflé with Coastal Cheddar sauce; Baked Saint-Marcellin cheese with truffle honey; Grilled Mackerel with green apple sauce; and Pâté de Campagne with pear chutney for starters. All arrived together about ten minutes after ordering, presented beautifully and tasting delicious. No complaints. Just enough to whet our appetite for the mains, which we were told would take around 20 minutes as they are cooked fresh to order.

The chefs use only the very best, sustainable produce and you can taste that in even pub staples like the free-range burger my husband chose. I ordered the slow-cooked beef bourguignon in a red wine sauce with mash (very tasty and perfectly seasoned); Tammy had the Gressingham duck leg confit with blackberry sauce; and, for our gluten-free friend Gary, the pork rib-eye.

Everyone was happy and we agreed the chefs definitely knew what they were doing – this was way above pub grub level.

Despite being pleasantly full, we thought it would be rude not to sample the desserts when such trouble had been taken to design them; that’s what we were there to do after all. So, on we pressed with a chocolate delice, sticky toffee pudding and pistachio soufflé, which my husband, who is not a poetic man, said was like eating air.

Gary, who was given an additional paper menu with gluten and/or dairy-free options, decided to ‘test’ the kitchen, ordering a gluten-free cheese board from our professional but nervous waitress, which wasn’t actually on his menu. She took it in her stride and re-appeared a few minutes later with a beautifully presented and stocked cheese board, complete with gluten-free bread. Test passed with flying colours.

Jack Halford, Assistant Manager, came to chat and was genuinely keen for feedback – always a good sign on an occasion like this, anxious that everything was perfect before the big opening.

Omid, Jack and team have got this spot-on; their hard work and determination for the venue to be a success shone through. The Britannia is the perfect mix of chilled out atmosphere with excellent food and service; classy yet laid-back. We’re so happy The Britannia has its heart back.

To book a table go to www.britanniaparkstone.com

Written by Emily McGregor, Local News and Lifestyle Reporter.